The most fortunate meeting of cine-philes

Today, I do Montmarte. I'm on a mission - find as many sights from the French film Amelie as possible. I am the consummate cinematic tourist (others would just call me a film geek, I prefer the former).

I get off at Lamarck-Caulaincourt Metro Station to take pictures of the double-sided staircase. I can't quite remember which bit of the film it was featured in, but I read it online last night that it was a shooting location. I'll watch the DVD when I get back to refresh the tired and burned-out brain. At the station, I need someone to take my photo.

CHRISTINA: Excusez moi. Parlez vous Anglais?
GUY WITH BACKPACK: Si.

Turns out, he's American and has just come from Sans Sebastien with several of his frat-pack friends. Relatively cute. He's surprised that I'm traveling alone (I'm surprised that he's surprised) and gives me a warm and sturdy handshake as we part. It was a lovely moment. When I pass several work men, one calls out "Nihao ma!" ('Hello' in Mandarin). I automatically respond with "Bonjour" and a wave with my brie baguette.

I traipse up to Saint Vincent with its upward-climbing cobblestone streets and quaint buildings with the quintessential red and purple blooms in window-sill flower boxes. The weather has turned grey and showery, which makes me thankful for the open skies for the last three days.

I sit out front the Sacre Coeur with the hoardes of tourists who flank and flood the staircase. A man is busking just below us with his guitar and a set of maracas for the willing ones. A chubby little girl jumps at the opportunity.

After a wander through the church (will I go to hell for planning my afternoon's itinerary in the pews?), I make my way out. As I leave the site, I see a group of young people sitting on the steps holding "FREE HUGS" signs. They aren't getting many (or any) offers, but they look happy to be there anyways. When one of the girls smiles when I take their photo, her face is more beautiful than the cathedral behind her. I drop €1 into the busker's bag.

I end up bumping into a Venezuelan-born American - Daniela - near the bottom of the steps. We offer to take each other's pictures. When I tell her that I'm doing a film locations trek, her face lights up. She's a fan of Amelie too. I invite her along. We walk to Au Marche de la Butte on Passage des Abbesses, which was Mr Collignon's greengrocer's store. It's shut but clearly the site of many visitations. A faux fruit and vegetable stand has been painted on the panel in front. We're unsure of which apartment Amelie lived in, so we take pictures of all the apartments in the surrounding area. This of course means it was probably none of them.

After a swift visitation into a porn/sex shop along boulevard de Clichy called Palace Video which was the one featured in the film (and a subsequent offer of services by several middle-aged and rather wrinkly prostitutes), we take pictures outside of the Bal du Moulin Rouge. It's playing the same show as the one I saw 7 years ago. Some things never change. The price of tickets is not one of those things.

Finally, we arrive at Cafe des Deux Moulins at 15 rue Lepic. You know how everything is beautiful and airy in the film? How everything looks so friendly, homely and clean? How the service staff are so sweet and wonderful? Well honey, it ain't like that in real life! Our waitress is nas-tee. When we take photos of the place, she yells at us to move out of her way. She's certainly no Amelie. Who got out of the wrong side of the boudoir today?

I must go for the creme brulee and a cafe au lait. As rush-rush and rude the wait staff are, the creme brulee is divine. And it is one of the best coffees I have ever had. In my entire life. No bitter after-taste. Smooth. Pleasant to the palate. I order a second.

Daniela and I befriend yet another Amelie-fan, a Brazilian girl called Juliana who we keep bumping into at various points on this Amelie-traipse. I think back to the last time I was in Paris and all the people I met. One of my fondest memories is sitting outside the Sacre Coeur with Leticia (also from Brazil), drinking cheap red wine and eating chocolate croissants as the sun came down. Good people are to be found everywhere if you open yourself up to the possibilities. Buddy - I'll make it to Porto Allegre soon!

By 7pm, we all part company. Free hugs here.

I meet up with Simonne and Helene at Lounging Lizard at 18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg. We eat good food, drink good wine and have good conversations. I could get used to this lifestyle. Even though it's pelting down and cold, the company makes me forget the weather outside.

And so ends my stay in Paris. I think back over the last week here, and what is to come. Au revoir this fabulous city and its fabulous people. Til next time at least.

Sergio sends me an SMS. I'm ready for London.